By Ashley Parsons | Extract from Lonely Planet’s Women Travel Solo
“Cycling solo taught me that I can journey alone—but it’s still nice to have help along the way.”
With a vintage bike, a tent, and a sleeping bag, Ashley Parsons set out on an unplanned adventure: cycling from Paris to Geneva. Along canals, forests, vineyards, and mountain trails, she tested her resilience, independence, and love for the road.
A Spontaneous Journey
After a week laid up sick in Paris, I’d missed my trains and my chance to cycle from Nantes to the city. I still had to get east to Saint-Gervais-les-Bains in the Alps, so why not try a first solo-cycling adventure to Geneva?
Equipped with essential gear and a mostly unplanned route, I set off. My vintage Sunn hadn’t seen much use since a long cycling trip in Central Asia, which I’d taken with my partner Quentin. Travelling together taught me teamwork: he navigated, I charmed locals; he hauled our bikes up cliffs, I whined. Solo travel meant learning to be minimalist, independent, and resilient.
“Camping alone felt scary at first—but I wanted to enjoy it for myself, not just with a safety blanket.”
Off the Train and Onto the Road
From Montargis, I pedalled along canals, covering the first 70km before searching for a campsite. Satellite images led me to an abandoned industrial complex, now a pottery studio. The artist there welcomed me to pitch my tent nearby—close enough for comfort, but still wild.
Morning light revealed a soaked tent and more kilometres to cover. The forests of Morvan awaited: vibrant with autumn reds and golds, thick evergreen canopies, and trails that challenged both bike and rider. Solo cycling proved efficient—I stopped only for necessities and moved steadily toward my destination.
Trials and Triumphs
Camping near an abandoned church brought a surprise: a nocturnal owl, hooting and growling, startled me from my sleeping bag. Fear gave way to amusement—I was a guest in its world.
The Jura Mountains tested me further: stairs, steep trails, and a flat tyre on the final day threatened to slow me down. But chance encounters and local kindness saved the day. A passing driver helped me reach Nathalie’s workshop, where I fixed my bike and continued toward Lake Geneva.
“The first days were easy, the following ones more difficult, but ultimately rewarding.”
Warmshowers and Local Flavours
Hospitality came in the form of Warmshowers hosts Guillaume and Claire. Their little girls were enchanting, and the meal they prepared—a Mont d’Or au four poured over potatoes with a Jura Vin Jaune—made me forget the miles.
“A home-cooked meal with simple, quality ingredients is my idea of perfection.”
The combination of cycling, challenges, and human kindness created a journey full of discovery, endurance, and delight.
Lessons Learned
Would I solo cycle again? Absolutely. Would I ride this exact route again? Probably not. This adventure was a plunge into independent bike travel, teaching me the joys and trials of going it alone.
Since then, I’ve embraced multi-day gravel rides, upgraded my gear, and started planning new adventures—because solo travel is not just about arriving; it’s about discovering what you’re capable of along the way.
“Cycling solo isn’t just about the distance travelled—it’s about finding confidence in your own strength.”
“Women Travel Solo”
Book shoot with Deepa Lakshmin
Women Travel Solo by Lonely Planet, $35.99 RRP. Contact shop.lonelyplanet.com
