There is a distinct kind of magic that happens when you stumble upon a destination that feels entirely yours. For one unforgettable week, we found ourselves nestled on the lush island of Ilhabela, located just off the coast of Brazil’s São Paulo state. We had hit upon a true local secret: a gorgeous coastal haven favoured heavily by Paulistanos escaping the city, where the English language is a rarity and the pristine beauty of nature takes centre stage.
Because we visited during the off-shoulder season, the island’s charming historical town, our home base for the trip, was peaceful. But the true crown jewel of our getaway was our accommodation: Villa Kebaya.
Waking Up in the Rainforest
Stepping into Villa Kebaya is like stepping across the globe. The rooms are elegantly styled with deep Balinese influences, inspired by the owners’ time living in Indonesia. Our room was a stunning chalet complete with a hammock and its own private outside pool.
There is no need for an alarm clock here. Instead, our mornings began with the enchanting symphony of the jungle: the calls of vibrant birds and the chatter of wild marmosets swinging through the canopy. Our room overlooked a massive, ancient boulder framed by thick, emerald rainforest, seamlessly blending luxury with the untamed Brazilian wild.
A Masterclass in Morning Rituals
If you read reviews of Villa Kebaya before visiting, you will notice a recurring theme: the freshly cooked food and incredibly friendly staff always figure strongly. After experiencing it firsthand, I can confirm that both the breakfast and the included afternoon tea are an experience worth enjoying
Mornings start with a ritual for the senses. Sustainably produced Brazilian coffee is prepared table-side; you pour the rich coffee through a traditional muslin cloth, adding hot water and fresh, hot milk from jugs. The deep, earthy aroma of the beans fills the air before you even take your first sip.
This is accompanied by freshly hand-squeezed orange juice and vibrant plates of fresh mango, melon, and sweet grapes. The second course is made to order, whether you prefer eggs, waffles, or traditional Brazilian tapioca, served alongside warm, homemade bread. But the true delight is the surprise at the end: cake. Brazilians have an undeniable sweet tooth, and starting your day with a slice of freshly baked cake feels like an indulgent secret.
The indulgence doesn’t stop there. Afternoon tea greets you later in the day with rich chocolate and carrot cakes, specialty teas, coffees, and more fresh juices to replenish you after a day of exploring.
Infinity Pools and Hours of Bliss
When we weren’t exploring, we were unwinding. The hotel’s main infinity pool is kept at the absolute perfect temperature, offering sweeping views of the lush tropical scenery and the distant, mist-covered mountain peaks that define Ilhabela’s dramatic skyline.
Nearby is a small spa area, where I treated myself to a massage with Iza, a woman with magic hands. It was an hour of bliss that melted away any lingering travel fatigue. So much so, hubby booked his own massage with Iza – and came back singing her praises.
The unparalleled service at Villa Kebaya only amplified this relaxation. The staff are incredibly kind and attentive, particularly Giza at the reception desk. She became our go-to island expert, effortlessly organising cabs and giving us invaluable advice on the hidden corners of the island we simply couldn’t miss.
Waterfalls, 4WDs, and Island Adventures
Taking Giza’s advice, we ventured out to explore the island’s rugged coastlines. We took a boat trip to a secluded stretch of sand known as Praia da Fome (often lovingly referred to as “Foam” beach), before heading to another breathtaking beach on the north of the island to feast on fresh calamari before a long walk.
Often cited as one of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil, Praia de Castelhanos is the wild heart of Ilhabela. Stretching over 1.5km, this remote bay is famous for its unique heart shape, which is best viewed from the Mirante do Coração (Heart Lookout) located on the right side of the beach.
The journey home was an adventure in itself. We piled into a 4-wheel-drive vehicle and rumbled back through the thick, untamed jungle of the island’s state park, passing spectacular cascading waterfalls along the way.
As we bumped along those dirt roads, surrounded by nothing but towering green canopies, I felt a profound sense of comfort. It is deeply reassuring to know that this massive, protected state park is actively safeguarding this gorgeous, wild part of the world for future generations.
Ilhabela is a place where the jungle meets the sea, where luxury meets nature, and where time seems to slow down just enough for you to savour it all. If you are looking for a sanctuary off the beaten path, Villa Kebaya is waiting.
Plan Your Escape: Vila Kebaya, Ilhabela
Located in the heart of Ilhabela’s historic centre, Villa Kebaya offers a secluded sanctuary that blends Indonesian-inspired design with the lush, wild beauty of the Brazilian Atlantic Forest. With only 15 suites, it provides an intimate, high-end experience just a short walk from the island’s best restaurants and beaches.
Highlights:
- The Design: A unique blend of Balinese architecture and local Brazilian materials, featuring natural stone accents, elegant woodwork, and hammocks on every private balcony.
- Wellness & Relaxation: An infinity pool artfully built around natural rock, a steam room, a sauna, and dedicated yoga and massage services.
- The Famous Breakfast: A multi-course, gourmet breakfast experience featuring fresh, local ingredients served with meticulous attention to detail.
- Sustainability: Built with a commitment to living closer to nature, the property is a haven for local wildlife, including marmosets and tropical birds.
Good to Know:
- Location: Rua Antônio Lisboa Alves, 167, Ilhabela, Brazil (Steps from the Historic Center).
- Policies: The hotel is a tranquil retreat and welcomes guests aged 12 and over.
- Sustainability Note: In harmony with the surrounding forest and local wildlife, pets are not permitted.
How to Book: Visit vilakebaya.com.br for direct bookings and the best seasonal rates, or email contato@pousadavilakebaya.com.br for personalised inquiries.