I’m not sure whether it was the first glimpse of the Paspaley Pearl that took my breath away, or the realisation that I was finally stepping into a dream I had carried for most of my life.
All white lines, polished elegance, warm smiles and a glass of bubbles waiting at the top of the gangway. Within minutes, my shoes were off, my shoulders had dropped, and I knew this was going to be no ordinary cruise.
Quite simply, there is nothing like it.
The Paspaley Pearl by Pearl Expeditions is a rare combination of barefoot luxury, expedition capability and discreet intimacy. Within the Paspaley portfolio, it represents the very epitome of style. For me, it was perfection.
This is a pearl of a ship in every sense.
Perhaps it was the barefoot luxury — no shoes required on board, even at dinner. Perhaps it was the technical ability to go where few ships can. Or perhaps it was the fresh, modern cabin décor, the spacious bathroom, the walk-in shower and the large sea-facing window that meant I could shower while still looking out at the water.
Then again, it may have been the intimacy. With just 15 staterooms and suites, a highly attentive crew, expedition leaders, naturalists, a private chef and a hospitality team who seemed to anticipate every need before it was voiced, the experience felt deeply personal from the moment we boarded.
Matched with state-of-the-art technology, the ship moves with remarkable stability and smoothness, adding to the sense of effortless comfort. Stabilisers reduce the swell and allow access to places larger vessels simply cannot reach. You quite simply go where others can’t.
Guests can choose between an intimate five-star dining room or al fresco dining on the open deck. There is also a sundeck and spa, offering space to relax and unwind between excursions.
From the marine deck platform, guests step directly into Zodiacs, with steady crew hands guiding you safely in and out. Every departure and return is carefully logged, giving the excursions a seamless but reassuring sense of safety.
And what excursions they were.
After a visit to a freshwater waterfall, a swim, a snorkel or a guided tour in search of rare birds and marine life, we were welcomed back “home” with cold scented towels and freshly made drinks of the day served on trays.
It was the height of personal care, intimacy, experience and luxury. At times, it felt as though I had my own private ship, complete with crew, guides and chef.
Solo, But Never Alone
One of the unexpected joys of the voyage was the people.
The fact that the other guests and I are still on a WhatsApp group says everything about the like-minded travellers who choose Pearl Expeditions over a conventional cruise.
They were well educated, well travelled, kind and endlessly entertaining. Across all age groups, they brought fascinating life experiences and stories. There were airline staff, Paspaley biologists, farmers, travel agents and tech entrepreneurs. Everyone naturally rallied around one another — supporting, laughing and sharing the journey together.
Travelling solo, I had the best of both worlds. I could retreat into privacy whenever I wanted, but companionship was always there if I chose it.
At dinner, we could sit wherever we liked in an intimate five-star setting, with immaculately laid circular tables that would put many first-class restaurants to shame. There was always the option to enjoy lively conversation, or to sit quietly at a table for two.
For a woman travelling alone, that balance felt rare and wonderful.
The Route Of Dreams
The Pearl Expeditions Raja Ampat and Spice Islands voyage took us from Dili in Timor-Leste through some of the most untouched areas of eastern Indonesia.
The 12-night expedition traced the Spice Islands, taking in the Kei Islands, Kitikiti Waterfall, Raja Ampat, Banda Neira and Ambon.
As an ocean swimmer, it was everything I had dreamed of.
I flew from Sydney to Darwin, then connected to a flight landing in Dili, Timor-Leste. Pearl suggested an overnight stay in Dili, where I met other guests and we chose to dine together. I immediately bonded with everyone. Although I was happy to travel alone for peace — especially as I run my own company — I was warmly welcomed and quickly felt part of the group.
The next day, we were picked up by coach for a tour of Dili, including a visit to a coffee plantation and lunch together, before preparing to board the ship mid-afternoon.
By then, 24 hours into my holiday, I was bursting with excitement to see the ship of my dreams.
I don’t think there are words for the first glance, except perhaps: all-white lines, elegance, warmth, easy comfort and immaculate décor.
Welcomed up the ramp by the Captain and crew, we were greeted with bubbles. I was handed my key and went straight to my balcony cabin to unpack.
Unlike many larger cruise ships, the Paspaley Pearl is beautifully compact. It is only ever a two-minute walk back to your room, so if you forget your sunglasses or camera, it is a quick return. That small detail makes a huge difference. It saves time and helps the ship feel like a home away from home.
I remember travelling on a Cunard cruise, which I also enjoyed, but if you forgot something, it was a long walk back to the suite. This was entirely different.
Raja Ampat: Nature’s Richest Realm
Raja Ampat is one of those rare destinations where the phrase “once in a lifetime” does not feel exaggerated.
Located in Southwest Papua, Indonesia, Raja Ampat sits in the heart of the Coral Triangle and is widely recognised as one of the richest marine environments on Earth. Its waters are alive with reef fish, coral gardens and marine life, while above the water, limestone islands, rainforest, waterfalls and birds of paradise create a landscape that feels almost unreal.
Looking back at the photographs taken by photographer Josh Burkinshaw, who was on board during the voyage, it is hard to believe those places are real.
But they are. I saw them. I swam there. I will relive them many times over.
Life On Board
So what made it so good?
The food. The other guests. The crew. The elegance and beauty of the ship. The ability to choose between being educated, exploring, relaxing in your cabin, or simply staring out at the sea.
Each day’s program appeared on the television in our rooms. The bar fridge was stocked with soft drinks. The rooms were serviced twice daily. The Starlink Wi-Fi was excellent, allowing me to communicate with both my family and my office.
I loved the Aesop toiletries and the purpose-built wire in the shower where I could hang wet swimmers after a day in the water. With a large window looking out to sea, I never had to miss the view, even while getting ready for dinner.
And the food deserves its own mention. The dining was elegant, generous and beautifully considered, whether enjoyed inside or under the open sky.
The Moments I’ll Never Forget
Some of my favourite memories are the quietest ones.
Hearing the history of remote islands discovered by European explorers and settlers centuries ago. Learning about the wars, tragedies and spice-trade routes that changed hands from one power to another. Seeing a sky full of stars. Gazing at the galaxies. Watching sea life leap from the water in front of us.
There was also a deep respect for the environment, for local communities and chieftains, for the ebb and flow of currents, and for the weather. At all times, I felt safe in the hands of our Captain, officers, guides and crew.
That sense of care changed the whole experience. Adventure never felt difficult. Luxury never felt forced. Everything flowed.
#LivingLikeVictoriaBeckham
My hashtag for the holiday quickly became #livinglikeVictoriaBeckham.
It made me laugh, but it was also true.
For 12 nights, I felt cocooned in style, surrounded by wild beauty and cared for in a way that is almost impossible to describe.
Perhaps the best review I can give is this: I have already booked my next voyage on the Paspaley Pearl.
This time, I’m going to the Kimberley.