Our new Women Love Travel writer TV host and journalist, Amber Sherlock shares her transformative milestone trip with her close group of girlfriends trekking across the wilds of New Zealand on the celebrated Routeburn Track.
I woke to the sound of birds chirping as the first rays of sunlight crept over the mountains. My mind buzzed with anticipation, my body was full of nerves and heart felt impossibly full. At breakfast, I looked around the table and saw ten of my closest girlfriends laughing and chatting as we prepared for our upcoming trek.
This trip had been more than a year in the making. With a milestone birthday approaching, I wanted to celebrate in a way that felt meaningful, with an adventure I would remember for the rest of my life. So, I sent a message into a WhatsApp group.
“Anyone keen to come to New Zealand and hike the Routeburn Track?”
The responses came quickly.
“Yes!”
“I’m in!”
Followed by a few practical questions.
“How far is it?”
“What do I wear?”
And, perhaps most importantly, “Will I survive?”
Over the years, I had collected an incredible group of women. There were school friends who had known me since my teenage years, mothers I met at my daughter’s first day of kindergarten, and others whose friendships grew through my son’s school journey. Together, they represented decades of shared experiences, support and laughter.
Like most women in midlife, we are juggling a lot. Between us are careers spanning journalism, law, finance, property and technology, along with 24 children ranging in age from eight to eighteen. Life is busy. Time together is precious.
Twelve months out, we booked our flights, locked in the trek and began training. We deliberately chose the first weekend of the school year before sport, school commitments and family logistics had a chance to derail our plans.
At Sydney Airport, the realities of modern life were still very much present. One friend sat hunched over her laptop in the lounge, furiously finishing a report before take-off. Another was on the phone soothing a child through a last-minute crisis back home. The rest of us ordered champagne and orange juice while I handed out commemorative “Routeburn 2026” baseball caps.
The adventure had officially begun.
After arriving in Queenstown, we headed to Ayrburn, the beautifully restored hospitality precinct in nearby Arrowtown. Wandering through manicured gardens and past a picturesque waterfall, it quickly became one of the unexpected highlights of the trip. We enjoyed a guided wine tasting in The Barrel Room before settling into dinner at The Woolshed, sampling local produce and raising a glass to the days ahead.
The following day, we embraced our inner children and rode the famous Queenstown Gondola before racing downhill on the luge.. twice. There may have been a few regrets about the previous evening’s wine consumption, but thankfully nothing that couldn’t be laughed off.
Before long, it was time for our Routeburn briefing with Ultimate Hikes. As we filed into the room, our hiking experience varied dramatically. Some women had climbed Mount Kilimanjaro or completed Australia’s Larapinta Trail. Others would have been hard pressed to remember their last bushwalk. Yet despite our different backgrounds, we all shared the same sense of adventure and freedom. The next morning, we gathered at the meeting point, decked out in hiking boots, backpacks and enough Kathmandu gear to outfit a small expedition.
The Routeburn Track is widely regarded as one of New Zealand’s most spectacular Great Walks. Covering 32 kilometres over three days and two nights, it traverses both Fiordland National Park and Mount Aspiring National Park, showcasing alpine peaks, ancient beech forests, waterfalls and crystal-clear lakes.
Day 1 covered 12 kilometres. Almost immediately, our group spread out. One friend slipped in her earphones and powered ahead, determined to set a cracking pace. Others strolled more leisurely, chatting and laughing as they walked. Some focused simply on putting one foot in front of the other. Our broader group of around 30 hikers included mostly Americans and Canadians, ranging in age from their thirties to seventies. Seven hours later, we arrived at Lake Mackenzie Lodge.
Without hesitation, we stripped down to our swimmers and plunged into the icy lake. The shock of the freezing water sent shrieks echoing across the shoreline as we splashed, laughed and challenged each other to stay in just a little longer.
The lodge itself exceeded expectations. Accommodation ranged from comfortable bunk rooms to ensuite options, while the meals, all helicoptered in, were delicious and exactly what we needed after a long day on the track.
Day 2 delivered everything we had hoped for as well as a few blisters! The weather was spectacular, although the morning air was crisp enough to justify the guides’ favourite saying: “Be bold, start cold.”
As we climbed higher into alpine terrain, the scenery became increasingly dramatic. Snow-capped peaks surrounded us. Hanging valleys stretched into the distance. Crystal-clear alpine lakes reflected the sky.
For those willing to tackle an additional challenge, there was the optional ascent to Conical Hill, climbing to more than 1,500 metres above sea level. It was unquestionably the toughest day of the trek, but also the most rewarding.
By the time I arrived at Routeburn Falls Lodge, I was exhausted. Yet somehow, I still found the energy to pull on my swimmers and stand beneath an icy waterfall, letting the freezing water crash over me as I reflected on the day’s achievement.
The final day brought a gentle descent through alpine meadows and ancient beech forest as we followed the Route Burn River towards Glenorchy. And then, just like that, it was over. The eleven of us would probably tell eleven different stories about the experience. But there were some things we all agreed on.
New friendships had formed. Existing friendships had deepened. We had spent hours talking about our families, our careers, our hopes, our worries and the challenges of navigating this stage of life. Away from work deadlines, school schedules and the endless demands of everyday life, we had something increasingly rare, which was uninterrupted time together. There was laughter. There were a few tears. There were sore muscles and moments of self-doubt. But above all, there was friendship.
The Routeburn Track tested us physically, but it also reminded us who we are. Strong, capable, resilient women, who have spent years caring for children, supporting partners, building careers and showing up for everyone else.
Some of my friends ventured further outside their comfort zones than ever before. Others were in familiar territory. But every one of us came away with something valuable. These women give me oxygen. They make me laugh until my stomach hurts. They hold me up when life feels heavy. They give far more than they’ll ever know.
As I stood at the end of the track, turning 50 no longer felt daunting. It felt like a privilege. A chance to embrace the next chapter surrounded by extraordinary friends and unforgettable memories. And if this decade begins with a three-day trek through the mountains of New Zealand with a bunch of truly amazing women, I can’t wait to see what comes next.
