If my husband’s told me once, he’s told me a million times: he used to take his holidays as a child in Menton, a town in the south of France, next to the Italian border.
“What’s so great about it?” I asked when he began to argue his case for a return there.
“It has a lovely beach and delicious ice-creams…” he replied with a faraway look in his eyes.
“And?”
He couldn’t summon up much else from his wistful childhood memories. We went there anyway.
As it turns out, Menton which shelters in the shadows of the Alps-Maritime, is gorgeous. It is still an old-fashioned, bucket and spade, seaside town, the kind of place that would leave a small boy with indelible memories. But there is more to it than ice-cream.
On the little hill between Menton’s two bays, Medieaval houses pile on top of each other in a pastiche of roses, yellows and golds. In certain lights, they glow, reminding you that you’re in Provence where artists have long found inspiration. Wandering up through the post-card pretty alleyways on our first day, with washing hanging overhead, and church bells ringing out, I heard my husband muttering: “How did I not know this was here?”
Perhaps that’s Menton’s secret sauce. It can be different things to different people. It has people-watching promenades, but also botanical gardens and lemon groves. It holds Medieaval history but also the modern Jean Cocteau Museum. It has rows of Belle Epoche hotels but also innovative restaurants.
It also can’t quite decide if it’s Italian or French. The town was once part of Italy but became part of France after a public vote in 1860, which explains why you can find yourself saying ‘Bonjour’ one minute, and ‘Bonjourno’ the next, also bouncing between cuisines, choosing pasta or bouillabaisse, pizza or ratatouille.
One day, we took a fifteen-minute taxi ride across the border to The Hanbury Gardens, regarded as one of the most celebrated gardens in Europe. Their position on a headland is dramatic, with exotic plants from all over the world cascading down terraces and steps to the sea. “The jewel of the Mediterranean,” I said, somewhat lyrically, because I was running out of superlatives. But Himself was still muttering about not knowing that all of this was here.
The train, he did remember though. And quite rightly. It’s both charming and efficient. It runs all the way along the coast, linking up the towns and beaches. Twitchy legs dictate that I am never a fan of sitting in a car for long. The train allowed us to fly into Nice and be in Menton in less than an hour. No car rental necessary. I loved that!
We also used the train for day trips. Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, another Medieaval village not far from Monaco is ten-minutes from Menton. From its tiny station, we found steps up to the ruined castle at the top, which took some stamina to walk, but also steps down to a sheltered beach where we swam in azure colours. We also took the train, on another day, to the Italian town of Ventimiglia to wander its markets.
At the end of our trip, I asked Himself if Menton had lived up to his expectations. Sometimes going back to beloved holiday places can be disappointing. They’ve either changed or been enhanced by nostalgia. But Menton is apparently much as it was fifty years ago. The ice-creams remain excellent The only disappointment is the pedalos have gone.
Where to stay and eat: One of the oldest hotels in Menton is The Hotel Westminster, overlooking the promenade on the sea front. Besides its view of the sea, it also has gardens which are a lovely place for breakfast. My favourite eating spots were L’Orangerie-Restaurant, modern gourmet food served on tables in the back streets that was reasonably priced; and Coté Bistro, delicious local French food served in the small piazza in the medieval part of town.
Travel Guide: Menton & The French Riviera
Planning a trip to this stunning corner of the Mediterranean? Here is a highlight list of where to stay and where to eat
| Category | Recommendation |
| Where to Stay | Hotel Westminster – Historic, seafront hotel with beautiful gardens. |
| Where to Eat | L’Orangerie-Restaurant – Modern, gourmet dining in the back streets. |
| Where to Eat | Coté Bistro – Authentic local cuisine in the medieval quarter. |
| Must-See | Hanbury Gardens – Dramatic, world-renowned gardens on the Italian border. |
| Must-See | Jean Cocteau Museum – A highlight for art and history lovers. |
| Transport Tip | Use the efficient coastal train network to easily visit nearby spots like Roquebrune-Cap-Martin and Ventimiglia without needing a car. |
Pro Tip: Menton’s unique position means you can easily enjoy the best of both worlds. Spend your morning wandering the colorful French streets of Menton and your afternoon exploring the markets just across the border in Italy!