Evans Head sits just under two hours south of the Gold Coast in New South Wales – a leisurely two-hour drive from home for me, 90 minutes from Coolangatta Airport, 30 minutes from Ballina Airport (for those flying in) and a short drive beyond the iconic Ballina Big Prawn relocated to its new home outside the equally iconic Ballina Bunnings… Oh and let me tell you Evans Head is a million miles from care.
The easiest breaks are the ones where rest is the great common denominator. That, and three harried women with plans for nothing more ambitious than fresh food, a great book, long walks, early swims, early nights, and a lazy cup of tea to close out the day.
Evans Head met us right where we were. She didn’t ask us for anything (definitely a she), and she doesn’t try too hard. Known as the jewel in the crown of the Richmond Valley, Evans Head holds its own with long, unspoilt beaches, a working river, and a quintessential beachside landscape that hasn’t been overly handled for visitors. The three harried women comprised my sister Jil, my friend Caz, and myself, deliberately choosing midweek to avoid the weekend energy. Not that we’re afraid of fun, and I suspect weekends in summer are a very fun (and equally fabulous) proposition: families, surf, the river, seafood, a cracking pub with a high-energy, wonderfully busy beer garden. Something for everyone, just not what we were after on this quick getaway.
We stayed (as guests of Reflections Holidays) in Beach House 3 at Reflections Holiday Park, tucked just back from the ocean, not far from the main drag and bordered by what we quickly and very affectionately called “the rainforest.” The rainforest out the back of the Beach House, marking the land between Reflections and the beach front car park, became our daily obsession. From the deck, it had the stunning, deeply immersive quality of the 1990 Wynne Prize winning William Robinson painting of the same name. You could sit with it for hours, watch the sun change her depth and layers (also a she) and find something new with every viewing. And we did, in fact, it’s pretty much how the days unfolded… “I’m just going to sit and watch the rainforest for a bit,” became a common theme.
Mornings came early, more by choice than necessity, which made for a wonderful change. Sleeping that close to the beach, it felt mildly irresponsible not to catch the sunrise. The dolphins seemed to agree as they moved through the break at first light, a quick cameo for the odd fisherman and a lone surfer on a couple of small waves and off they’d go again. Meanwhile, the fishing trawlers are racing the tide on their run back into the Evans River after a night at sea. It’s a place that is still working, even when you’re not.
At the Evans Head Fishermen’s Co-op, the catch comes straight off the boats, with seafood fresh and wild and ready to eat. The river itself is exceptionally clean, ideal for swimming, SUP, and kayaking, all of which we had grand plans to do, none of which we did. Much to our own delight, it was arguably the most wonderfully laziest break we’ve ever had.
We had other grand plans too. Razorback Lookout for the view, Dirawong Reserve for a bush run, in fact, for nature lovers, there are a couple of National Parks, all expansive, untouched and within reach. We took our running gear, but all we squeezed in were those early morning beach walks. We fell into an easy rhythm: sunrise, a quick swim, then a short walk to the Evans Head Surf Club for coffee, where the view does all the heavy lifting. Back to Beach House 3, book in hand, sun on your back, eyes fixed on “our rainforest.” Books were opened, closed, then opened again.
As it turns out, the best laid plans are easy to leave for another time. We mostly stayed put. The beach, back deck and “our rainforest” gave us everything we needed, and then some.
For those looking to explore a bit more, there’s history here, too. The Evans Head Museum is understated but worth every dollar of the $3 visit and the shortest of strolls from Reflections. The museum is a reminder that Evans Head has done more than just host summer holidays. During World War II, Evans Head was home to one of Australia’s largest bombing and gunnery training schools, with thousands of airmen passing through under the Empire Air Training Scheme. It was a serious operation, live training over the ocean and inland ranges, not without incident and risk. After the war, the base was decommissioned, but its footprint remains, and the legacy sits ever so quietly across the town.
Some might say this is where Evans Head gets its depth; maybe it explains why the town feels slightly different from other coastal surf towns, with a sense of purpose baked in. A working river, a fishing industry, and, historically, a place that contributed directly to the war effort.
Hot tip, it’s not a trip to Evans Head if you don’t check out Tel Aviv Yafo. A cafe that would hold its own in any city, doing its thing in a small town that isn’t trying to be one. As true seekers of joy, we made 3 separate trips – scrambled eggs with roasted eggplant for a solo brunch, Cinnamon scrolls and coffee that didn’t last long, home-made hummus and falafel and holy savta the baklava (!), crisp, layered, not too sweet.
It’s the baklava you can’t stop talking about, the one you double back on departure to buy extra for the short drive home. Yes, that kind, and we did exactly that.